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The Phuang Malai in Thai Fashion

Recently, I’ve come across some interesting and even edgy interpretations of the traditional Thai floral garland, the phuang malai, in Thai fashion. Traditionally, this kind of flower garland is used for ceremonial and auspicious occasions. Thus, it does not come as a surprise that many Thai people dissaprove of using the phuang malai as a fashion accessory. Nevertheless, I’d like to show you some unusual and stunning creations using the traditional Thai floral garland.

The Phuang Malai in Thai Fashion

For instance, Thai designer Rotsaniyom is well-known for their vintage, ethno and romantic creations. Hence, in one for their former collections called ‘Malai’, they used Thai flower garlands as a fancy shoe accessory.

Rotsaniyom Malai Collection

Thai fashion Rotsaniyom Malai Collection (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

What is more, in their recent collection, they feature a white dress which is kind of traditional Thai style. This dress is called ‘Choey Ceremony Dress’ and incorporates a white lacy phuang malai in the belt.

CHOEY CEREMONY DRESS (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

CHOEY CEREMONY DRESS (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

A white dress with the phuang malai in the belt (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

A white dress with the phuang malai as an accessory (photo: Rotsaniyom FB page)

Whereas Rotsaniyon presents us romantic interpretations of the Thai floral garland in fashion, the Lounge Hair Salon came up with some more edgy creations including the floral garland at the BIFW 2015 (Bangkok International Fashion Week).

Edgy incoporation of the phuang malai at the BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Edgy incoporation of the phuang malai at the BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

For example, there is a spiky, metallic floral garland which is used as a hair accessory. This metallic phuang malai really seems to be punk and also a bit goth. Well, I’m not sure what to think of it!? I don’t find it beautiful but nevertheless it is extraordinary and eye-catching.

A punk phuang malai by The Lounge Hair Salon (photo: theloungehairsalon.com)

A punk phuang malai by The Lounge Hair Salon BIFW 2015 (photo: theloungehairsalon.com)

They also featured a Thai floral garland made from hair. I think this looks amazing and certainly took a lot of time and effort to create. This is truly a work of art and needs to be appreciated 🙂

Thai floral garland made from hair (photo: theloungehairsalon.com)

Thai floral garland made from hair BIFW 2015 (photo: theloungehairsalon.com)

Phuang Malai as an edgy fashion accessory BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Phuang Malai as an edgy fashion accessory BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Summing up, we may say that the phuang malai seems to have found its way from traditonal (ceremonial) object into Thai fashion. I find it very interesting and amazing how Thai designers and other artists interpret the traditional Thai flower wreath. What do you think of the more edgy creations?

Yours, Sirinya




Phuang Malai: Thai Floral Garlands

One of the most beautiful and artful things in Thailand is the Phuang Malai (พวงมาลัย). This is the Thai traditional garland which is the most common of all the country’s floral creations. These traditional garlands range from simple to highly complex arrangements and are placed as offerings on shrines, temples or are given to special guests as a sign of respect. What is more, the Malai is also frequently used on auspicious occasions.

Phuang Malai

Phuang malai garlands being constructed in Pak Khlong Talat flower market, Bangkok (photo: Irene2005, wikimedia.org)

Phuang Malai garlands being constructed in Pak Khlong Talat flower market, Bangkok (photo: Irene2005, wikimedia.org)

The Thai garlands are created by stringing various flower combinations together that depends on seasonal blooms and on the artist’s imagination. The mixture usually includes one or more fragrant flowers like jasmine and rose buds.

Thai garlands at Bangkok Pak Khlong Talat (photo: Deror Avi, wikimedia.org)

Thai garlands at Bangkok Pak Khlong Talat (photo: Deror Avi, wikimedia.org)

It is said that the first recordings of this kind of Thai floral art dates back to the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). He mentioned fresh flower garlands in his work about the “Royal ceremony in 12 months”. Later in the Rattanakosin Era, the Thai flower garland became an important ornamental ceremonial object on special occasions.

Worshipped elephant at Wat Kham Chanot near Ban Dung, Thailand (photo: Mattes, wikimedia.org)

Worshipped elephant at Wat Kham Chanot near Ban Dung, Thailand (photo: Mattes, wikimedia.org)

There are different kinds of Malai pattern. For example, there is ‘Creature Malai’ which means that the floral arrangement has the shape of an animal. Then there is the ‘Chained Malai’ which is made from rounded Malais connected to form a chain and similarly, there is the ‘Braided Malai’ which means that two rounded garlands are connected and decorated with a pine-shaped malai on each end.

A Malai (photo: Garland in Thai culture, FB page

An artful Malai (photo: Garland in Thai culture, FB page)

In the ‘Vine Malai’ the garlands are arranged in a vine shape. A garland is a ‘Laced Malai’ when silver and golden threaths are inserted inside and outside the wreath. A special Malai is the orchid one which means that only orchids are used to create the garland.

Thailand Bangkok Pak Khlong Talat flower market (photo: ovedc, wikimedia.org)

Floral arrangements at Bangkok Pak Khlong Talat flower market (photo: ovedc, wikimedia.org)

In Thai culture, the Malai is commonly used as an offering, a gift or souvernir. Thus, we can generally distinguish between three main uses of these garlands which are Malai chai deaw (มาลัยชายเดียว), an offering to show respect at a shrine or temple, for instance. Then there is Malai song chai (มาลัยสองชาย), this is when a traditional Thai garland is given to and draped around the neck of a person to emphasize the importance of that person.

Pak Khlong Talat - flowers and vegetables market, nightime, Bangkok (photo: Deror Avi, wikimedia.org)

Pak Khlong Talat – flowers and vegetables market, nightime, Bangkok (photo: Deror Avi, wikimedia.org)

Finally, there is also the Malai chum rui (มาลัยชำร่วย) which is a souvenir malai. This is a small garland given to people as a souvenir. Thus, Malai chum rui may be compared to the lei in Hawaiian culture. Today, the Malai may also be a fashionable accessory (though many Thai people dissapprove of it). For instance, Thai fashion designer Rotsaniyom use small floral garlands for shoe decoration.

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration (photo: Rotsaniyom, FB page)

At the Bangkok International Fashion Week 2015, I also spotted some interesting and edgy interpreations of the Thai floral garland. Caption this.

Edgy incoporation of the phuang malai at the BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Edgy incoporation of the phuang malai at the BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

A hairstyle and face decoration inspired by Thai floral garlands, BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

A hairstyle and face decoration inspired by Thai floral garlands, BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Phuang Malai as an edgy fashion accessory BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Phuang Malai as an edgy fashion accessory BIFW 2015 (photo: Amat Nimitpark)

Summing up, we may say that Phuang Malai has various forms and functions in Thai culture. In my opinion, it is the most versatile, elaborate and amazing Thai art form. Hence, next time you’re in Thailand, get yourself some nice flower wreaths 🙂

Yours, Sirinya




Rotsaniyom: Thai Fashion Designer

The Thai fashion label Rotsaniyom was founded by the couple Pongsak ‘Off’ Kobrattanasuk and Thita “Gift” Kamonnetsawat in 2007. Initially, this designer couple sold T-shirts at two stalls in Chatuchak Market.

Rotsaniyom

Pongsak ‘Off’ Kobrattanasuk and Thita “Gift” Kamonnetsawat

Pongsak ‘Off’ Kobrattanasuk and Thita “Gift” Kamonnetsawat

Since their T-shirts sold very well among vintage lovers, Off and Gift expanded their fashion design and started a flagship store at Siam Center and recently opened another store at Emquartier. The stores are also designed with a vintage touch, thus there is an art deco inspired entrance evoking a nostalgic feeling in the visitor.

Rotsaniyom White Label at Siam Center, enjoy the vintage feel-at-home atmosphere

Rotsaniyom White Label at Siam Center, enjoy the vintage feel-at-home atmosphere

Their style can be described as vintage and retro with an Asian-ethnic touch. Hence, romantic and dreamy patterns, lace and romantic designs are predominant. The dresses are mostly cream coloured, white or pastel.

Rotsaniyom designer 'Gift' wearing an extravagant lace dress

Rotsaniyom designer ‘Gift’ wearing an extravagant lace dress

Designer pieces by Rotsaniyom are supposed to be pieces of art. Thus, the designers appreciate high quality and design incorporating some old school accessories like antique sunglasses or classic hair accessories. However, they also create jewellery and ‘adornments’ that are more edgy.

More edgy RSY Adornment

More edgy RSY Adornments

Gift has always been in love with fashion design and she particularly admires Thai fashion designers like Greyhound, Theoddyssee and It’s Happening. They are her main source of inspiration. In her view, there is no need to look at international designers in search for role models or inspiration.

Rotsaniyom: Lace is more

Rotsaniyom: Lace is more

Both designers love the Old Town in Bangkok and they also enjoy collecting vintage items. For instance, Gift bought a Japanese dress from the 1920s which she considers the oldest piece that she owns. Thus, vintage items are also a great source of inspiration for the Rotsaniyom desginers!

Rotsaniyom Housestudio

Rotsaniyom Housestudio

What is more, Gift draws upon movies, female characters and Thai culture for inspiration and ideas. In fact, her favourite female character is Mae Ploy, a young girl entering the service of a princess of Rama V’s Royal Household, in the movie ‘Four Reigns’. Gift’s aim as a fashion designer is to incorporate some Thai elements into modern fashion.

Beauty ideals SS15 runway looks

Beauty Ideals SS15 runway looks

However, sometimes it seems difficult to bring modern fashion design and elements from Thai culture together. A prominent example is that a lot of Thai people were scandalized at Rotsaniyom’s Malai (Thai garland) collection in 2014 because they used these garlands in their shoe design. Some people did not like this because traditionally the Malai is used for paying respect to elderly people and to the Buddha.

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration

The Rotsaniyom Malai collection 2014 uses traditional Thai flower garlands as shoe decoration

Finally, we may say that Thai fashion design that wants to incorporate Thai elements can be a balancing act indeed. Nevertheless, Rotsaniyom is a great and creative Thai fashion brand that catches the fashionista’s eye.

Yours, Sirinya

(All photos in this post, credit: Rotsaniyom, FB page)